Ask anyone whether they’ve ever been in Andalusia, and the answer will be ‘Yes, I’ve been to Seville’. Seville is the city everyone talks about, I haven’t met yet that person not love it. And the truth is that it’s impossible not to.
Planning our Spanish escape, I was not sure how much time we should spend in Seville. One would say a week is not enough, the city is enchanting. Which is true. However, if you’ve only got one week holiday, and you’re a curious traveller, like us, a couple of days could work quite well.
We’ve spent 2 nights at the beautiful boutique hotel, Triana House, in Triana neighbourhood on a quiet and authentic paved street. What we love the most? The elegant staircase and the beautiful room, the comfy bed and the paintings on the wall. And not to forget about the breakfast served in our room, ‘breakfast in bed’ is everyone’s dream. Right?
Triana is less busy than the centre of the city on the other side of the river, and it’s only 15-20 min walk. Walk along the river and then cross one of the 2 bridges, and there you are, in the middle of everything.
Before you cross the river, make sure you make a stop at Dulceria Manu Jara. An authentic bakery, serving delicious pastries and cakes. Mercedes, behind the counter would spend all the time in the world describing all the delicacies or dealing with a demanding customer on the phone. There’s no hurry, life has a different pace here.
2 min walk from here is Triana market, for those after some Spanish treats or for those just curious. The market is right next to the bridge, so there you are just about to start your exploration.
What’s to be seen?
Royal Alcazar of Seville, a royal palace built on the site of a former Muslim fortress.
The Cathedral in Seville, an extraordinary building, where Cristofor Columb was buried. His tomb is quite impressive and can’t be missed, as there’s always a crowd of people taking photos.
For both the Cathedral and the Alcazar do book in advance, it will save you time as you can skip the long lines at the ticket office.
Plaza de Espana, the little Venice of Seville
The Parasol, which is apparently the biggest wooden construction in Europe.
Where to eat?
Our favourite place was Canabota Bar, for the fresh fish and the great wine. Friendly service, despite the language barriers. Luckily, I do get a bit of Spanish, after all watching soaps operas in school was not in vain. There is also Canabota restaurant, for the fine dining lovers. Make sure you book in advance, it’s a tiny place and the chances of getting a table only by showing up are very slim.
If you’re looking for a wine bar, we found this little gem, next to Parasol, Lama La Uva. Be there early if you want to catch a seat, as there’s not too many. Have a glass of wine, while crunching on some Spanish cheese.
El Rinconcillo is apparently the oldest tapas place in Seville, everyone talks about. And you’ll find it in all the articles about dining in Seville. We did not make it (so little time and so many places), but if you spend more days in Seville, make sure you put it on the list.
El Pinton is the most instagrammed restaurant in Seville, again, we haven’t been, but was on our list. As a matter a fact we passed by, and the place looked cool and the dinners seemed to be happy.
Bar el comercio, for tapas and the famous churros with chocolate
Other places we’ve pinned to our map, but not tried nor tested (YET, maybe next time)
Estraperlo, close to Plaza de Espana
Espacio Eslava, traditional tapas with a twist
Mama Bistro, Mediterranean restaurant
In much need for a coffee? After walking 18km in a day, we were desperate to get one. Feet were dead, but eyes were enchanted.
There are 2 places we’ve tried and tested, both serving excellent coffee. Virgin Coffee, next to Parasol and Torch Coffee Roasters, 5min walk to the Alcazar. You might need a boost before visiting the Alcazar, as you can easily spend couple of hours wandering around and exploring the gardens.
Jester, coffee place close to Royal Alcazar of Seville
Panypiu Bakery, for an afternoon treat
If walking a lot is not your thing, you can anytime jump on an electric scooter, rent a bike or why not, get a ride on the famous yellow wheeled carriages. If you’re lucky enough and get a chatty driver, you’ll find out everything about Seville.
Now, one thing I did not cover is when is best to visit the city. All I can say is when not to go, and that would be summer. The city gets packed and the temperatures are scorching, not sure how much you’ll enjoy being there. Instead, chose spring or late September/early October when temperatures still reach at day 30+ degrees and skies are clear.
Clear blue skies, this is what makes Seville so special. Sun brings joy and makes everything seem brighter and more special. It’s one of those things you take for granted when you live in South of Europe, but not everyone has this luxury of waking up to blue skies 300 out of 365 days a year.
Planning a road trip in Andalusia? Check out the other posts about our Spanish adventure 🙂